Arenal can be pretty wet in the wet season, as we’ve seen on several occasions. You never know how the weather will be, and that includes the dry season. But the draw of the volcano is such that everybody is happy to chance the mist, low clowds or rain to catch a glimpse of the monster. For this volcano, when it manages to escape the clowd cover and appear, simply towers over the surrounding countryside, the perfect conical volcano, even more menacing because of its peaceful appearance.
View of Arenal volcano from Arenal Manoa Hotel
We decided on a quick weekend raid to see the Arena volcano, risking the tricky November weather. And tricky it was. But despite light rain much of the time (“you should have been here yesterday, it was lovely…”), it was still great fun. We started off in style, congratulating ourselves on a clean and quick exit from San Jose, not dogged by the usual sharp words and impatience spread over a couple of hours until we were finally ready to leave. However, after a couple of miles, we realized we’d forgotten money and music and had to turn back, so knew this was a departure like any other. And relatively late, almost 3pm.
As outward route we took the normal, and generally fastest route, via San Ramon and Chachagua to La Fortuna. It’s supposed to take 2 1/2 hours from San Jose, and I’m sure it would have done. But our traveler tips here are: first, don’t turn off at Palmares because you spotted a sign down below pointing to San Ramon (as we did), just be patient and carry on along the PanAmerican to where there is a really big sign pointing to San Ramon. Costa Rica is famous for no signs, here is a real exception, but you do have to reach it to see it.
And secondly, don’t set off eastwards from San Ramon with the fuel indicator just above red. As we also did. Because after 15 miles or so, you suddenly remember that this stunning road, rolling and winding alternately through rainforest and cattle pastures, has few villages and is worse than a desert in terms of petrol stations. As our stress level rose with each curve, and conversation focussed on the erratic behaviour of the fuel needle, we struck lucky when we stopped at a small empty restaurant in the middle of nowhere and asked the waiter. He was definitely used to people like us: he rattled off that the nearest back the way we came was 28km , or 26km ahead of us, or 32km at the first right turn. But he took pity after seeing my expression and said that just 10km away they sell petrol in Supermarket the Miniature (La Miniatura) in the small village of Bajo Rodriguez. That’s our secound tip, that supermarket could save your bacon as it did ours. But do arrive before it closes, as we nearly didn’t!
We stayed the night in the Arenal Manoa Hotel. Although mainly aimed at groups, we were impressed by the size of the rooms in the cabins, modern and very comfortable with large bathrooms and a balcony in front, all reasonably separated from each other in the large property 800m east of the main road heading west from La Fortuna. The view towards the volcano was stunning, and we were lucky to have a full view in the early morning despite drizzle but it clouded up later. Arenal Manoa is 12 in TripAdvisor, so quite popular.
Sunbed area at Nayara, with view (normally) of Arenal volcano
As Arenal Manoa was not too far from the Nayara Spa & Gardens, we went to have a look as a new sushi restaurant is being added. There is no doubt that this upscale lodge, much smaller than Arenal Manoa with 44 casitas, a member of the Small Hotels of the World and recognised as one of the top romantic boutique lodges in Latin America, is a really marvellous place to spend a few days. It is usually 2 in TripAdvisor. Every room has a view of the volcano from attractive and totally private balconies, and are furnished very stylishly and with considerable care and attention. The individual casitas are surrounded by a lush tropical garden, so that, unlike many of the hotels in the area, you really can enjoy stunning views of the volcano from a completely-tropical setting.
La Fortuna again struck us as tacky and touristy, probably too small to be called a town, but overflowing with souvenir shops, small hotels, day tour operators, and restaurants. Although the restaurants are varied and can be a good break from hotel meals – and often much cheaper. The best hotels are those some distance away, set in the countryside, such as the two mentioned above.
The area, like elsewhere in Costa Rica, abounds with names of fantasy: Delicias, El Tanque (the tank), Tigra and Venado, Socorro (help), Pocosol (little sun). The names of the two small neighbouring villages, Tigra (female jaguar) and Venado (deer), must surely reflect a constant state of mistrust and tension between the communities? In fact there are two villages in the area called Tigra, a sign that jaguars were clearly roaming around actively in the past. Yes, they still exist, but are extremely shy.
On the way back we took the other main route, via Ciudad Quesada (also confusingly called San Carlos). This too is a windy and very attractive route through beautiful countryside, but it takes about 1/2 hour longer due to more traffic. It comes out closer to San Jose, at Naranjo.
Overall we definitely recommend staying in a hotel or lodge outside La Fortuna, in the countryside, and only visiting La Fortuna if you need a break from the hotel cuisine or want to rent a car or quad. There is plenty to do in the area to keep you busy for a couple of days: a visit to the National Park at the immediate foothills of the volcano, the thermal springs (several private and public places to choose from), the waterfalls, hanging bridges, and the lake itself. We will be happy to help arrange and tailor Costa Rica nature and Arenal tours, or car rentals, at any time!
